Central Park South sees a new upscale dining option in , formerly known as The Back Room in the Park Hyatt New York. The relaunched space retains its predecessor’s clubby atmosphere, massaged by the design firm Yabu Pushelberg into an 80-seat, earth-toned oasis. Dual dining rooms feature wood-paneled walls punctuated by grey stone tabletops, tonal ombre rugs and h banquettes and velvet chairs.
London-based design studio Random International’s algorithmic light installation SWARM / XI holds court over the bar, part of a larger series of works meant to mimic the flight of birds; I kept catching it out of the corner of my eye while dining and thinking something had caught fire. (An eery, if appropriately animalistic reaction to have.)
The bar at Bevy.
Whiskey on ice.
Brooklyn’s idiosyncratic design vernacular also found its way into the decor: cocktails at the bar are served on gold finned coasters; ambient light from custom Lindsey Adelman fixtures extend the organic-modern theme upwards; and each course is served on ceramic dishes from North Carolina-based . (Not Brooklyn, but still.) On the other hand, the floral arrangements smacked of a last-minute bodega run, tucked as they were into ill-chosen mint julep cups—I guess you can’t win them all.
One of two dining rooms.
The menu offers diners a farm-to-table experience on par with the city’s other upscale hotel eateries, catering to an international clientele with a focus on grilled meats and fish. A 40-oz. ribeye can be yours for just under $100; the fatty Mangalitsa pork collar, a holdover from The Back Room’s menu, stands out for both its presentation and flavor. A dedicated “Roots, Shoots & Leaves” section features roasted baby beets, a rainbow carrot salad and seasonal favorites like fava beans and sautéed peas. Brussels Sprouts are conspicuously absent.
Long Island oysters on ice.
Smoked Mangalitsa pork collar.
Chef de Cuisine Chad Brauze helped his former stomping grounds Rotisserie Georgette earn two stars from the New York Times critic Pete Wells with a menu that fell back on classic French cooking—“If this restaurant had a clock, its hands would be stopped at five minutes before nouvelle cuisine,” wrote Wells in 2014. His menu at Bevy is similarly concerned with familiar gustatory pleasures, all complemented by a thorough, thoughtful wine list curated by Tristan Prat-Vincent, a recipient of Wine Spectator's Best of Excellence Award.
While the neighborhood is world’s away from NYC’s trendiest destinations, Bevy isn’t concerned with being the hottest spot in town. Its focus is on giving patrons what they want, how they want it. And on that count, it scores.